Sixteen92 – Heliophobia Limited Edition

Sixteen92 is doing something awesome where they are releasing scents for Friday the 13th’s.  And each consecutive Friday the 13th all previous releases will be available.  Heliophobia is the first one which is the fear of sunlight.  Unfortunately (?) 2016 has seen it’s last Friday the 13th and the next one won’t be until January 2017.

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photo by smellallthethings

Notes are: Climbing ivy, faded magnolia blooms, moonlit vines, cracked solarium glass, splintered wood, peeling wallpaper, humid air, fog & shadow, feral musk

In the vial this reminds me of the house from Doctor Who’s Blink.  On my skin it is much of the same.  An old house long ago taken back by the vegetation and wilderness around it.

This picture perfectly encapsulates the feeling of this blend.

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photo from doctorwholocations.net

The magnolia is heady and blooming, white and fresh and clean yet somehow melancholy as only magnolia can be.  There is so much greenness to this scent, but it’s not like fresh cut grass or anything quite so in-your-face, instead it is calm, unassuming, but you know it’s there from the first breath.  The wallpaper is on the verge of crumbling under your fingertips as you run your hand across it.  Both the wallpaper and the wood have seen many years of neglect and abuse at the hands of nature and so mold and other fungi have taken hold and add to the overall moldering scent that permeates the blend.  It’s not offensive, but it adds to the atmospheric nature of this blend.

You can almost feel the shade and shadows creeping around this blend, as though it is purposefully hiding the light.  This is creepy, but only if you’ve been to places like this, where you can feel the history in the house and it almost speaks to you.

It takes about an hour, but it becomes a super masculine blend and it is reminding me of some cologne that I can’t quite remember.  But whatever it is, I love it!

Overall this is the perfect blend for those who enjoy old, possibly haunted, buildings, green scents, or atmospheric scents.

Deconstructing Eden – Spring 2016 Collection

Yipee my Deconstructing Eden Spring scents are here!  I just love the beautiful blue of Jardin Botanique and I’m so excited to try all the scents.

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photo by smellallthethings

Sun in Splendor describes today perfectly!  Beautiful and sunny.  This has notes of dark amber, agarwood CO2, calendula blooms, a drop of honey, clover, rich wood and bergamot.  Oh wow this is a beautiful and bright scent!  The agarwood and amber are deep and fragrant giving the most golden of glows to the blend.  Honey keeps it sweet nad the clover gives it a nice greenness.  There’s a touch of floral in the blend that doesn’t overwhelm but gives it that lovely out door feeling.  It’s crisp, clean, golden and gleaming – just a perfect blend for that perfect Spring day.

Dans Le Jardin has notes of freshly turned earth, hyacinths, tulips, lily of the valley, tender green leaves, ivy, unripe strawberries and the very first buds of lavender not yet bloomed.  Oh nice – this is a fresh blast of beautiful moist earth with a lovely dew covered greenness surrounding it.  The florals are new and soft, just starting to release their scent.  This scent is the perfect scent for Spring and that week or two where you are planting your garden at the beginning of the season (which in Ohio is just after Mother’s Day) and you get the lovely scents of the earth and plants.  You can really feel the sun and the earth and the life flowing around you.

June Jardin  is next and it boasts notes of Gardenia, Orange blossoms, white wisteria, osmanthus, muguet and moonflower.  This blend opens with a blast of muget and orange blossoms.  There’s something almost spicy about this and the moonflower gives a beautiful sweet and dewy scent.  After it’s sat for a while the florals float and shift in the breeze.  It remains with a touch of spice and heady florals.

Le Verger has notes that include old growth trees, a field of clover, peaches, pears, nectarines, citrus blossoms, ripe apples, apple blossoms, unripe figs and fig leaves.  Oh wow this is fruity and juicy!  There’s just a hint of greenness to cut through the fruit so it isn’t too overwhelming.  I love the way this makes me think of picnics with fruit salads!  Also, there’s a touch of wood from those old growth trees.  Very pretty, sweet, and uplifting!

Jardin Botanique is the one with the pretty blue liquid!  It’s notes include Blue Cypress, blue yarrow, lavender maillette, juniper berries, petit grain, bergamot and clary sage, rosewood and just a bit of peppermint.  This is peppermint!  That fresh, sweet, and minty candy that is usually found during Christmas time!  After that initial blast of peppermint I get that nice blue cypress and some juniper with a touch of sage.  After the initial blast of peppermint it calms down and gives you the feeling of a deep conifer forest at the height of spring rains.

Legare has notes of mahogany, magnolias, spanish moss, gardenias, iced black tea, petit grain, and warm breezes from the ocean.  Oooh more mahogany!  I really enjoy it in Jaqueline.  I immediately get a blast of sea salt from the ocean.  The magnolia’s are heady and the spanish moss hangs from the trees like a soft and soothing blanket.  Black tea waits for you on the porch while the breeze flows.  This is deep and beautiful.

Alkemia Samples

I’ve got more samples from Alkemia to review!  So far I’ve been super impressed with all their scents, even the ones that don’t work on me.

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photo by smellallthethings

Gaea symbolizes Earth and Mother – so perfect for Mother’s Day (May 8th if you’ve forgotten!) and it has notes of sun-warmed loam, decaying leaves, moss, lichen, & wet stones.  First sniff in the vial is all earth and dampness.  On my skin however I get the sun-speckled loam, the decaying leaves of the forest floor, damp scent that is exclusive to forests, and I also get stone!  Who knew stones had a scent?  The moss and lichen add to the overall greenness and dampness of the blend.  This is a beautiful earthy scent – different from Hexennacht and entirely it’s own, but if you enjoy the earthiness of that blend, you’ll probably dig this one too!

Bohème is described on the site as an intoxicatingly free-spirited unisex blend of earthy patchouli and blood-red roses. Erotically radiant.  In the vial I get earthy red roses – just big ‘ole bunches of them.  On my skin is much of the same.  I’ve had a rather rocky history with roses – it’s taken nearly 8 years of my perfume wearing to actually wear them.  Initially on my skin the roses almost scream but that settles rather quickly.  It is a very earthy patchouli – almost dirt-like  (apparently I had a theme) with roses, deep and sultry, bringing up the top.  This has a rather large throw on me and I can smell this without really putting my nose to the skin at all.

So maybe there were two theme’s running through my scent choices that I was completely unaware of.  Next is Vanille Patchouli with a scent described as purest vanilla seduced and despoiled by wild, dirty patchouli.  Another simplistic yet well done blend.  This isn’t like any patchouli I’ve tried from Alkemia yet (amazing how that happens).  No, this is that dirty nitty-gritty patchouli that gets described as “hippy shop” or “head shop”.  But with it is this absolutely sweet, almost floral, and beautiful vanilla.  It cuts through the grit and smooths it out.  Again, another blend done best when done simply.

New Orleans Love Spell sounds like it’s in for a good time!  It’s notes include a lascivious blend of night-flowering New Orleans jasmine and fiery spices igniting a base of red sandalwood and skin musk.  Ooh, the vial has this nice soft spice scent about it.  On my skin I get the jasmine and sandalwood under that beautiful spicy scent!  I get something like cassia or cinnamon, but it’s more than just that – there’s other scents (most likely florals and a pepper) that round out that spicy note and make it complex.  This is a warm and sexy blend, one that would need to be used sparingly as it has a beautiful throw and a little goes a long way.  As time went on this definitely put a spell on me.  I couldn’t stop sniffing that spot and kept catching beautiful whiffs of it floating around me.

Desiderata looks like a wonderful spring to summer transition scent with notes of fresh honeysuckle blooming under a rising full moon, ivy vines, dew dampened grass, riverbed clay, old barnwood, and earthy vetivert root.  In the vial is a beautiful green scent – like crushes leaves or grass.  On my skin I actually get a moon-like scent – white and crystalline.  Oh wow, this is like sitting next to a babbling creek bed looking up at the full moon and checking out the Milky Way.  Somehow this is calming, soothing, and almost meditative.

Sixteen92 General Catalog Samples

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photo by smellallthethings

I just had to go and get some more samples from Sixteen92‘s general catalog after having such a good experience with their Spring Collection.  There has been discussion on their Facebook Page about discontinuing a few scents and making room for others, possibly A Thousand Times More Fair from their Spring Collection as well as three others.  Two of the scents I’m reviewing (The Awakening and La Llorona) are on the chopping block!  Eek!  Discontinuations are expected and understandable, but they are still sad.  I always get this knee jerk reaction of OMG I NEED IT (even if I’ve never liked the scent before) because what if it gets better with age and then it’s all gone and you can’t find it anywhere because everyone else knew it was awesome and then you missed it and can never have the awesome again and …. *deep breath*  Yeah, so, I got those two specifically to see if I truly want them or if I’m just having discontinuation anxiety.

The Awakening has notes of: Ocean air, dark water, damp mosses, gulf mud, saltwater taffy.  Now normally I’m not one for ocean types as it usually means ambergris and I’m not a fan of ambergris.  However, I really enjoyed Storm of Fortunes which has ambergirs so I decided to give this a try.  Plus it’s on the chopping block (eek!) and I’m going to the beach on vacation soon and I like “water” scents to wear when I’m at the actual water.

In the vial it is mostly the dark water, a bit of mud, and moss.  As soon as it hits my skin the water deepens even more and the ocean air starts blowing.  There’s a small hint of sweet saltwater taffy.  The mosses are wet from a recent storm and the mud has been churned by the waves.  This morphs and moves through phases as it dries, letting each note come to the fore like the coming and going of the ocean waves.  There’s also something cold in here.  Not physically cold, but it smells cold.  This is a very interesting blend, but a bit more salty than I care for.

Paper Moon is a Premium perfume and contains: Soft vanilla musk, benzoin, oakmoss, trailing ivy, peach blossom, rose.  Paper Moon isn’t awe inspiring in the vial and is mostly benzoin.  On my skin it blooms though.  The rose and benzoin are initially the strongest notes.  The vanilla musk is at the base, soft and light and barely there while the ivy and peach blossoms weave through the rose and benzoin.  This is a soft skin scent with very light silage (throw).  Pretty, but I like things with a little more oomph to them.  It does end up having a paper-like quality to the scent which is neat.  Eventually the benzoin calms down, the oakmoss comes out and all the other notes blend and play nicely together.

This is growing on me the more I wear it.  Soft, slightly sweet, with a nice green base and a hint of flowers.

La Llarona (the other one on the chopping block) consists of: Bulgarian and Egyptian rose absolute, pink and white pepper, pink grapefruit, wisteria, cashmere wood, pale amber. At first this is all wood, soft and brown with a hint of pink grapefruit and a whisper of wisteria.  This was one I put on right when I got it a few days ago and fell in love.  Which is sad because it’s going away so I’ll have to jump on a bottle of it! This is not only a golden blend in the vial, but also on my skin.  The rose is soft and velvety, the pepper adds just the barest touch of spice while the grapefruit burns off as it dries.  Now the wisteria is coming out stronger with that beautiful base of wood and amber.  Truly a warm blend that just makes me think of snuggling up and being cozy.

Southern Gothic has notes of: Mandarin Orange, Apple, Coconut Pulp, Southern Magnolia, Jasmine Sambac, Balsam, White Sandalwood. In the vial I get all the high notes: orange, apple, magnolia, and jasmine.  I’m a sucker for jasmine sambac.  On my skin the mandarin orange comes and goes fairly quickly leaving behind just a golden bright sweetness in its wake.  The coconut pulp comes out and gives a creamy almost tropical feel without going completely tropical.  It’s a nice balance.  The sandalwood and balsam are the base on which everything settles on.  This blend reminds me of Georgia, sitting out on my Mom’s porch when she lived down there.  It’s a languid, sweet, and comforting blend meant for porch sitting and tea drinking.

And last, but not least, Wicked with its notes of: Three vanillas, dark aged patchouli, almond buttercream. In the vial this just SCREAMS almond buttercream.  Unfortunately that intensifies on my skin.  Normally my skin chemistry turns almond into this sour mash smell and unfortunately it’s doing the same thing, only now it’s surrounded by moldy buttercream and off smelling vanilla.  I’m not even getting any patchouli as my own chemistry is amping that almond.  (Because I wanted to point out chemistry, I did not wash this off as fast as I’d intended and now …) Now, after a while the patchouli has come out and the almond, while still this weird mash thing, isn’t screaming at me.  It’s a bit on the foodie side and not my cup of tea, but others may enjoy it.

Not sure if this needs said or not, but my experiences may or may not be what you would experience in a blend.  If you notice with Wicked I mention my own skin chemistry.  Everyone is different.  Hormones, hydration, medications, diet, and even the water in your house and the lotion you use can effect how a scent smells on your skin.  Please bear that in mind and take all reviews with a grain of salt (or a sniff of perfume …).